This Peak is 5th highest peak out
of 18 the peaks under the NMA and one of the least
frequented by the expeditions. To attempt the mountain
you need some mountaineering
skill and relatively easy to get the climbing permission.
Chulu West is situated in a little valley, which is
north of Manang. This is one of the Peaks can be seen
from the major trail Thorong La. One should have a
technical idea to climb this peak. North West Ridge
is summit way. While climbing this peak, be prepared
for steep scree to col a 4,900 m. North of the col
ascend snow slopes for 200 meters to a rock band at
5,100 m. Climb this difficult rock band to 5,450 m.,
cross on to a snow plateau at 5,530m and follow the
progressively narrowing ridge to the summit (Chulu
West). To climb Chulu Central, cross the snow plateau
and then traverse onto the Chulu Glacier basin east
of the ridge. Ascend the broad glacier slopes avoiding
serac obstacles. While not technically difficult,
this area can be nasty in soft snow and is prone to
avalanche under certain conditions. Continue toward
the obvious Central summit on steeping snow until
it is possible to gain the crest of the summit ridge,
which may be corniced. This leads directly to a small
saddle and the final 15-meter pinnacle.
This trip sets out from Bensi Sahar, the district
headquarters of Lamjung a neighboring district of
Gorkha. From Bensi Sahar the trail leads up slowly
to wards Manang, one of the highest valleys of the
world situated at an altitude of 5000m. One-day rest
will be set to explore the Manang Valley and for the
acclimatization. From Manang the route heads north
to lead and on to the Chulu West Base camp. Three
days are set a side for the ascend of this peak and
you head to Thorong-La and follow the same route come
back to Katmandu as in the “Around Annapurna
Trek”
Ascent of Chulu West and Chulu Central are best made
from a base camp in a small valley north of Manang
situated off the main trail to Thorong La pass 5416m.
Indeed some of the best views of this peak can be
had from that pass.
North-West Ridge
Go beyond the hut following the yak pastures and walk
up a ridge which leads into a hidden valley where
it is possible to find a good site for base camp.
From this camp, ascend steep slopes to a col. 4,900/16,076
feet), on a subsidiary ridge that leads down from
the main ridge. To the north of the col. ascend snow
slope for 200 meters to the base of a band of rock
at an altitude of 5,100 meters and the site for a
possible high camp. Climb the rock band with some
difficulty to the northwest shoulder of Chulu west
5450 meters/17,880 feet, where another camp can be
established or alter-native a camp can be placed on
a snow plateau above 5,530 meters/18,143 ft. On the
first ascent and several subsequent ascents rope was
fixed on the rock band. From the plateau continue
up the progressively narrowing ridge to the summit
6,250 meters /20,505 feet. Descend by the some route.