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Description :
Imja Tse (Island peak), 6169m. is one of the most
popular lesser peaks and scaling the mountain you
will need some mountaineering skill.
This trip is the same as the ‘Everest’
treks till your entrance to the Chukkung valley. Either
you can take air service from Katmandu to Lukla or
drive to Jiri 184 km. Eastward of Katmandu and commence
trek to Lukla and then continue up past Namche Bazaar,
Tengboche, Dingboche, Imaja Glacier to the Base camp
of Imja Tse or Island peak. Three days are set aside
for the ascent of Imja Tse and follow the same route
back to Katmandu as in the ‘Everest’ trek.
If you take one-way flight to Lukla, the whole trip
will cover within 23 days and 16 days is enough if
both way flights are taken.
This trip offers you not only enchanting views of
Mt, Everest (8848m.) Lhotse (8516m) Amadablam (6856m.)
and numerous others peaks; draws your attention towards
monasteries and traditional Sherpa villages. Such
a massive glance of the Himalayan peaks can create
in you a pleasant wave of internal felicity.
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South
East Flank & South-West Ridge :
Normally, the base camp is set at Pareshaya Gyab
(5,087m), between Imja Tse and
the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. It should not
be forgotten that the place is more likely for avalanche
in the event of heavy snowfall. From the base camp, a
well-acclimatized party in good conditions can make the
summit and return to the base camp in a day. However,
most of the climbers prefer establishing a High Camp,
which helps a safe ascent. From the base camp the route
skirts southeast around and base of Imja Tse and climbs
steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. We scramble
up on open gully which leads between two ridges to the
site of high camp on the left-hand ridge below and to
the right of a small hanging glacier (5,280m). From the
high camp, the left hand ridge scramble across the broad
open gully. After crossing a gully a steep snow and ice
ramp leads upward for nearly 100 meters to the summit
ridge. Climbing near the summit is a little difficult
due to steep climbing. In recent times the snow slopes
below the summit has developed some large crevasses making
the final ascent to the top difficult. North
Ridge Route :
First ascent was in 1958 by Alf Gregory, Dick Cook and
two Sherpas. North of the main summit the ridge continues
to a col (5,700m). The route climbs the ridge from the
col, which is reached by following the true right bank
of the Imja Glacier and later the moraines on the right
bank of the Lhotse Sar Glacier, before climbing north-west
over snowy slopes to the col. On the first ascent, a
camp was placed on the col. From the col, follow the
ridge which is a magnificient snow arete, due south.
This steepens for the final summit pyramid. This a long
ridge that would be difficult under soft snow conditions
and may under other contiditions have a marked cornice.
The climb is a little more difficult than the normal
route, and is graded alpine PD+.
Experience & Fitness: The Island
Peak ascent is optional so if you are a mixed group
and only some of you want to do the climb, this will
not be a problem. For the climb you should have previous
experience with ice axe and crampons, such as in winter
climbing in Scotland. Previous trekking experience is
helpful to test out your reaction to the cumulative
effects of walking day after day for several weeks.
The first week of the trek is at a fairly leisurely
pace to allow time for acclimatization. The later part
of the trek and climb are mostly spent at high altitude.
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Fact
Box about Island peak 20,283 feet / 6,183 meters |
| Total days |
20 + 4 =
24 days |
| Maximum elevation |
20,283 feet / 6,183
meters |
| Location |
Everest Region of Nepal |
| Best for the climbing |
May, July, August, September,
October, November |
| Year First Climbed |
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| First Climber (s) |
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| Convenient Center (s) |
Lukla, Chhukung valley |
| Nearest Major Airport
|
Kathmandu (Minor: Lukla
or Phaplu) |
| Itinerary type |
Lodge / Camping |
| Accommodations |
Fixed / Customized |
| Indicated times |
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| Trek grade |
Moderate & Strenuous |
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| Itenerary |
| Days |
Route |
01 |
Kathmandu-Lukla
(2860m) fly in the morning for 45 minutes then
commence & trek to Phakding (2600m) –
4 hours
After a very early start and an early take off
from Kathmandu Domestic Airport, a 45-minute flight
is all it takes to propel into the Everest region
of Nepal. The landings at Lukla (2800m) are spectacular
and on arrival trekking crew who organize the
luggage and hustle you off for tea will greet
you. After a leisurely lunch you will start the
trek in earnest, setting off for a gentle walk
to Phakding (2800m), a further 3 hours to the
north. The trail leads through Lukla, past hotels,
shops and airline offices to the edge of the Lukla
plateau where the trail drops to meet the intersection
of the Jiri trail at Chablung. From here the trail
follows the Dudh Kosi north through the village
of Ghat and then finally to Phakding where you
should spend the night. |
02 |
Phakding - Naamche
Bazar (3446m) - 6½ hours
From Phakding the trail continues north up the
Dudh Kosi Valley, staying 100m above the river
on it's West Bank. The trail leads to Jorsale
(2810m) where you enter the Sagarmatha (Everest)
National Park. From here you will continue on
an ever-steeping trail to Namche Bazaar (3446m),
known simply as Namche. En route you have cross
the spectacular suspension bridge high above the
confluence of the Bhote Kosi and the Dudh Kosi,
and shortly after glimpse first view of Everest,
way off to the northeast. The trail to Namche
is steep and long, but eventually you will reach
the remarkable Sherpa capital perched high on
the hillside and dominated to the east by the
immense bulk of Kwangde (6187m). |
03 |
Namche Bazar,
on day rest for acclimatization
Acclimatization is important before trekking higher,
and this is a scheduled stop, which will allow
you to gradually become used to the effects of
altitude - the lower pressure and the thinner
air. You can spend the day by taking a side trip
to Thami or Khumjung, by visiting the National
Park Visitor Center on the hill above Namche or
by simply resting and browsing in the shops in
the town. Namche is a fascinating place simply
to 'hang out' and take in the culture of the mountains,
from the trading of visiting Tibetans to the stories
of departing mountaineers. |
04 |
Namche Bazar
– Tengboche (3867m) - 6½ hours
From Namche you have to trek northeast on a direct
line to Everest, starting up the hill to the Visitor
Center and continuing on a reasonably flat easy
trail high above the Dudh Kosi. Ahead of you can
see one of the most beautiful mountains in the
Khumbu - Ama Dablam (6856m), as well as Everest
still far off in the distance. At Sanasa you should
branch off the trail and head up the hill to the
small settlement of Phunki where you will stop
for lunch. From here it is a steady descent to
the Tengboche. This is a beautiful settlement
where you can see the famous Tibetan Monastery.
This is the place where you have to spend overnight. |
05 |
Tengboche – Dingboche
(4343m) – 6 hours |
06 |
Dingboche-Lobuche (4930m)
- 5½ hours |
07 |
Lobuche-Gorakshep (3200m)
– 4 hours |
08 |
Gorakhshep-Kalapattar
(5545m) or Everest Base camp - Lobuche, 6 hours |
09/10 |
Lobuche – Chhukung
valley |
11
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Chhukung (acclimatization/rest
day) |
12
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Chhukung - Island Peak
base camp
From Chhukung you have to continue in a general
easterly direction to the site of your base camp.
The trail follows the moraine of the Lhotse glacier
to the snout of the Imja glacier where it branches
to the east and skirts around the base of Island
Peak. You have to make your main camp at a spot
known as Pareshaya Gyab at 5087m. |
13 |
Island Peak
base camp-high camp
After taking lunch and resting you will continue
up to the high camp, a further hour or so up the
mountain. The trail is well defined until you
reach the area of the high camp at approx. 5500m. |
14 |
High Camp-summit –
and decent Chhukung valley
You have to set off early for the summit at about
3.00 am, and scramble up in the dark to the snow-covered
glacier above. From here you have to take care
your way up the glacier until you should reach
a broad snow basin, which leads up to the final
section of the climb.
Ahead of you now is the main summit ridge and
climb a steep snow and ice slope, using fixed
ropes, for approx. 100m to access the ridge. The
ridge is a classic and leads quickly to the east
up to the main summit at 6189m.
From the summit there are fantastic across
to Lhotse to the north, the Amphu Labsta and
Mera Peak to the south, and Ama Dablam to the
west. After taking in the views you can descend
by the same route, abseiling from the ridge,
and making your way back carefully to Base Camp.
You have to retrace your steps back down to
the Imja valley, firstly to Chhukung where you
have to stop for overnight stay |
15/19 |
Decent from Chhukung
valley - Lukla |
20 |
Lukla (fly out)-Katmandu |
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| Note : Trekking
itinerary can be changed as per different situation. |
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