Jomsom
is more correctly known as Dzongsam or New Fort. It
spreads over both the banks of the Kali Gandaki. The
towering peaks of Dhaulagiri and Nilgiri form an attractive
backdrop. Being the district headquarters, it is primarily
an administrative and commercial center with government
officials and merchants rubbing shoulders with the local
inhabitants of the region, known as the Thakalis. It
has a wireless station, a police station, a bank, a
hospital and a veterinary hospital. A company of the
Nepalese Army is stationed here. Nearby is an airfield,
from where flights operate regularly. However, due to
the strong winds that buffet the area in the afternoons,
the airfield is functional only in the forenoon.
The Thakalis living in
the Jomsom region and in the nearby villages of Marpha
and Tukuche have been known for their trading skills.
They occupy an important village on the traditional
trade route between the Gangetic plains of India and
Tibet.
The views from Jomsom
are enchanting as the Nilgiri and Dhaulagiri ranges
reflect the golden rays of the rising and setting sun.
The entire panorama is filled with a golden, glittering
light, which forms a dramatic contrast with the barren,
black and dry mountains of the surrounding Kali Gandaki
valley.
The views of the mountains
are spectacular, and the route actually crosses to the
other side of the main Himalayan range for some unusual
views of the northern flanks. The entire route remains
below 3000 metres, though the trek is still strenuous
enough to be stimulating (see the Route Profile for
the trek around Annapurna). This is a good trek if you
wish to avoid high altitudes.
Muktinath, situated at
a height of 3,660 m, is an important pilgrimage center
for both Hindus and Buddhists. The most prominent shrine
is a Vishnu temple where 108 spouts, fashioned in the
shape of cows' heads, pour forth water that is considered
to be holy. This water is channeled from a stream running
above the temple. The temple is built in Tibetan style
and contains huge brass idols of Vishnu, Shiva, Brahma,
and Kali. Nearby is another temple where water gushes
out of a rock and this water is considered even more
holy. There is also a Buddhist Gompa (monastery), and
a pagoda-type temple dedicated to Jwala Mayi (goddess
of fire). In this temple, shielded by curtains, are
the outlets for the natural gas that oozes from the
rock and feeds the temple flame.
There is also a spring
close by. These three elements together are considered
to be an auspicious convergence of earth, fire and water.
There are two temples
of note, a dilapidated temple with the idols of Lord
Shiva and his consort Parvati, and a Narsingh temple
where rituals are performed according to both Hindu
and Buddhist customs. Here the two religions coexist
together and in the two-story structure, the lower story
is the Gompa while the upper story is the temple.
Muktinath and its
high valley are located in the Mustang Bhote region.
The climate and landscape here are similar to those
of the Tibetan Plateau since it is situated in the rain
shadow of the Greater Himalayas. Flowing through the
region from north to south and forming deep gorges is
the Kali Gandaki river, which as its name implies (kali
= black) is a black river -- the black stones of the
riverbed and black soil contributing to the effect
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