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Lobuche Peak has rarely been climbed. Most of attempts on the mountain climb the summit ridge only as far as a subsidiary snow summit before the true peak. Base camp for the South Ridge is best established near a hidden
lake at the base of the South-West Face near 5,551 m. The views from Ama Dablam and Tawuche are spectacular, and this spot provides a superb site for the base camp.

From the end of the lake climb beneath the main glaciers and gain access to the ridge overlooking Lobuche and the Khumbu Glacier. This point can be reached from the Lobuche side without great difficulty. Depending on the conditions the snow ridge can be followed. After crevasses will dictate the best line to take. Parties have recorded problems with crevasses cutting the ridge and presenting difficulties. The true summit can be reached with some difficulty by gaining the notch by descended and climbing the quite difficult snow slope to the summit.

Lobuche East is the hardest of the trekking peaks that commercial groups attempt. In the Everest Region (Khumbu) only Kwangde and Kusum Kangru are more difficult. The main peak of Lobuche however is to the NW of Lobuche East and is not included in the trekking peak permit. Therefore, a legal climb to Lobuche West (Main) (expedition-peak-permit) is considerable more expensive than to Lobuche East. Now follows a description of Lobuche East (20075ft, 6119m 27 58 08N, 86 47 04S).

Very few climbers who attempt this peak reach the real summit, but many attain the worth -while false summit. Good conditions and a dawn or pre-dawn start is recommended. The average angle for the entire climb is not steep, but there are areas of messy seracs that require two axes, front pointing and belaying. The ridge route is sometimes easier. Many climbers who take this approach stop at the top of the ridge, thinking this is the false summit of Lobuche East. But, infact a continuation on the knife-edged ridge is needed (rope!) to reach the false-summit. The true summit proved to be, at first, an unattainable goal, but the Swiss first climbed rocky outliners of Lobuche East in 1952. Subsequent attempts fell short of the summit, finally climbed in 1984. Lobuche West was first climbed in 1955, by the South shoulder, which was also the first attempt. Since than the mountain has been scaled only a few times, also by the East-Face.

 
Fact Box about Kusum Kangru 20,075 feet / 6,119meters
Total days 21 + 4 = 25 days
Maximum elevation 20,075 feet / 6,119meters
Location Khumbu region of nepal
Best for the climbing April, May, September, October, November
Year First Climbed 1979
First Climber (s) Japanese Expedition
Convenient Center (s) Namche Bazaar
Nearest Major Airport Kathmandu (minor: Lukla & Phaplu)
Itinerary type Lodge / Camping
Accommodations Fixed / Customized
Longitude 86° 46' 45" East
Trek grade Moderate/Strenuous
Latitude 27° 58' 19" North
Year First Climbed 1952 by Swish (Lobuche West), 1984 (Lobuche East)
 
Itenerary
Days Route
01
Arrive Kathmandu, Transfer to the Hotel & welcome dinner in the evening.
02
Sightseeing in Kathmandu valley & prepare for the trip.
03
Kathmandu - Lukla (2860m) - fly in the morning for 45 minutes then Commence trek to Phakding - 2600m
After a very early start and an early take off from Kathmandu Domestic Airport, a 45-minute flight is all it takes to propel into the Everest region of Nepal. The landing at Lukla (2800m) is spectacular and on arrival trekking crew who organize the luggage and hustle you off for tea will greet you. After a leisurely lunch you will start the trek in earnest, setting off for a gentle walk to Phakding (2800m), a further 3 hours to the north. The trail leads through Lukla, past hotels, shops and airline offices to the edge of the Lukla plateau where the trail drops to meet the intersection of the Jiri trail at Chablung. From here the trail follows the Dudh Kosi north through the village of Ghat and then finally to Phakding where you should spend the night.
04
Phakding - Namche Bazar (3446m) - 6½ hours.
From Phakding the trail continues north up the Dudh Kosi Valley, staying 100m above the river on it's West Bank. The trail leads to Jorsale (2810m) where you enter the Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park. From here you will continue on an ever-steeping trail to Namche Bazaar (3446m), known simply as Namche. En route you have cross the spectacular suspension bridge high above the confluence of the Bhote Kosi and the Dudh Kosi, and shortly after glimpse first view of Everest, way off to the northeast. The trail to Namche is steep and long, but eventually you will reach the remarkable Sherpa capital perched high on the hillside and dominated to the east by the immense bulk of Kwangde (6187m).
05
Namche Bazar, one-day rest for acclimatization.
Acclimatization is important before trekking higher, and this is a scheduled stop, which will allow you to gradually become used to the effects of altitude - the lower pressure and the thinner air. You can spend the day by taking a side trip to Thami or Khumjung, by visiting the National Park Visitor Center on the hill above Namche or by simply resting and browsing in the shops in the town. Namche is a fascinating place simply to 'hang out' and take in the culture of the mountains, from the trading of visiting Tibetans to the stories of departing mountaineers.
06
Namche Bazar - Tengboche (3867m) - 6½ hours.
From Namche you have to trek northeast on a direct line to Everest, starting up the hill to the Visitor Center and continuing on a reasonably flat easy trail high above the Dudh Kosi. Ahead of you can see one of the most beautiful mountains in the Khumbu - Ama Dablam (6856m), as well as Everest but it is still far off in the distance. At Sanasa you should branch off the trail and head up the hill to the small settlement of Phunki where you will stop for lunch. From here it is a steady descent to the Tengboche. This is a beautiful settlement where you can see the famous Tibetan Monastery. This is the place where you have to spend overnight.
07
Tengboche - Dingboche (4343m) - 6 hours.
Descend from Tengboche and cross the Imja Khola, then side hills gradually to Pangboche. An interesting Gompa is site above the main village. The trekker is the midst of the Himalayas here with spectacular views all around. Dingboche lying in a shelter spot above the Imja Khola is generally more attractive. It is however note that Himalayan Rescue Association has their aid post at Pheriche.
08
Dingboche - Lobuche (4930m) - 5½ hours.
The route is past Pheriche slants over a ridge and stays above the village. It joins the trail below Thungla Beautiful views of Cholatse 6440m across the valley. After another steep ascend the trail climbs up and over the terminal moraine of Khumbu glacier. The trail is rough in the parts. Stark and rugged beauty creates almost moonscape Campsite at Lobuche a wind swept collection of huts tucked in a narrow meadow between the glacier and the Lobuche Peak 6145m. Tawuche and Nuptse are particularly spectacularly from Lobuche towering almost two kilometers directly overhead.
09
Lobuche - Gorakhshep (5200m) - 4 hours.
10
Gorakhshep - Kalapattar (5545m) - Lobuche - 6 hours.
Start early in the morning to get Kalapattar. This is the place from where you can see the wide view of the Everest. Your dream will come true here.
11/13
Climbing, summit & return to Lobuche
14
Lobuche - Pangboche (3985m) - 6 hours
15
Pangboche - Khumjung (3790m)/Khunde - 7 hours
16
Khumjung - Syangboche (3720m) - Namche Bazar - 4 hours
17
Namche Bazar - Phakding (2600m) - 7 hours
18
Phakding-Lukla (2860m) - 3 hours, reconfirm the flight tickets
19
Fly to Kathmandu for 45 minutes from Lukla
20
Sightseeing in ancient City Bhaktapur, Cultural program show with farewell dinner
21
Fly back
Note: Trekking itinerary can be changed as per different situation and duration
Adventure Thirdpole Treks
P.O. Box 5503
Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal
Phone:+977-1-4423459
Fax:+977-1-4410834
Email : thirdpole@wlink.com.np, info@adventurethirdpole.com
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