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Mardi Himal is considered to be an
ideal introduction to mountaineering in the high Himalaya,
particularly if you have limited time available. No
previous experience of high altitudes is necessary,
as every precaution will be taken to ensure gradual
and thorough acclimatization during the trek to the
mountain. 
Although Mardi Himal is the shortest and probably
the easiest of our expeditions to Nepal, to maximize
both your enjoyment and your chances of success, you
need. A major benefit of Mardi Himal is the ability
to climb it in a round trip of a little over 2 weeks.
It therefore makes a visit to the Himalaya a real
possibility for those who hitherto have not been able
to find the time to join a longer expedition.
This peak is located in the east of the Modi Khola,
across the valley from Hiunchuli. It is separated
from Machhapuchhre ridge by a col. and usual route
of ascent reaches this col (about 5,200m. /17,060
ft.) and reaches the summit via a route on its east
flank. Although the mountain rises above the entrance
to the Annapurna sanctuary it is not often visited.
The trek reaches and then follows the Mardi Khola
for 2 days before turning and climbing the ridge line
for 3 more days before reaching base camp around 4,100
m. /13,451 ft.
The climb has problems with route finding and effort
but little technical difficulty: the couloirs leading
to the col on the East Face can present an avalanche
danger with fresh snow. The climb begins by heading
steeply towards the col on the connecting ridge between
Mardi Himal and Machhapuchhre. High camp is usually
placed just below the final steep (45 degrees) couloirs
leading to the col (about 4,650 m. /15,256 ft.) From
high camp, climb to the col and turn west, ascending
steep snow slopes to the summit. Descend the same
route.
Route : The approach to Base Camp is through
a remote forested valley of bamboo and rhododendron
typical of lowland Nepal. A high camp is established
above Base Camp from which the route to the summit
goes up a snow couloirs to the snow slopes that lead
to the summit. Camps will be place en-route.
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| Fact
Box about Mardi Himal 18,330 feet / 5,587meters |
| Total days |
16 days |
| Maximum elevation |
18,330 feet / 5,587meters |
| Location |
Annapurna region of
nepal |
| Best for the climbing |
April, May, September,
October, November |
| Year First Climbed |
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| First Climber (s) |
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| Convenient Center (s) |
Pokhara |
| Nearest Major Airport
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Kathmandu (Minor: Pokhara) |
| Itinerary type |
Lodge / Camping |
| Accommodations |
Fixed / Customized |
| Longitude |
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| Trek grade |
Moderate/Strenuous |
| Latitude |
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| Itenerary
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| Days |
Route |
01 |
Drive
to Pokhara,
We make an early start for the 6-hour drive to
Pokhara, Nepal's second largest town some 130km
to the west. |
02 |
Pokhara to Gyachok
Drive to Hyenja, we then set off on foot, along
the bank of the Mardi Khola which is soon crossed
via a rope bridge. We then follow the Seti Kola,
through farmed terraces to the village of Gyachok,
where we camp for the night. Good views of Machhapuchhre
and Mardi Himal. |
03 |
Trek to Sano
Khoban (1,600m).
After breakfast we walk through the village with
its beautifully built houses and dry stonewalls,
and friendly villagers. As we climb higher through
the paddy field terraces, the much busier villages
on the opposite side of the valley become visible.
A good track contours along the hillside to Dhiprang
and later we reach a super lunch spot by the river.
We then pass two more villages, Mirsa and Kaduwa,
which are the last settlements we will see until
our return trek. The day finishes with a steep
climb to the pastureland of Sano Khoban, where
we camp. |
04 |
Trek to Pipa
(3,150m).
The trail continues steeply, now through forest.
The only clearing in the forest is about 1 ½
hours from Sano Khoban, so we may well stop for
an early lunch. Then it is a long up-hill struggle
through dense forest until we reach 2,900m, where
we break out into the open air. A very steep ridge
then leads to the small lake at Pipa. |
05 |
Acclimatization
day.
Yesterday was a long day and we ascended 1,500m,
so today is a welcome rest day, to help us acclimatize
to the altitude. There is a stream suitable for
washing about 20 minutes from the campsite. |
06 |
Trek to Thulo
Kharka (4,120m).
We continue up the ridgeline, with fantastic views
stretching from the Manaslu group in the east,
across the Annapurna to Dhaulagiri in the far
west. Eventually we arrive at the pleasant grazing
area of Thulo Kharka. |
07 |
Trek to Base
Camp (4,100m).
This is a short day and the whole route to base
camp is visible from Thulo Kharka. It takes about
2 hours to reach it, where it sits in the obvious
valley, which descends between the south and southeast
ridges of Mardi Himal. |
08 |
Acclimatization
day.
Another important acclimatization day. It is best
to rest during this period rather than try and
do too much - there will be plenty of opportunity
for exertion later! |
09 |
Climb to High
Camp (4,650m).
It takes about 2 hours to reach the high camp,
our take-off point for the summit. First we climb
straight up for 200m then traverse around the
south-east ridge. A steady climb on rocks and
perhaps some snow then leads to the camp site.
This is in a good sheltered location but water
is scarce and may involve melting snow. Make sure
your water bottles are full at the beginning of
the day! |
10 |
Climb Mardi
Himal (5,555m).
With 900m of ascent before us, we need to make
a very early start to ensure success. The first
part of the climb is the couloir leading to the
East Col (5,400m), between Mardi Himal and Machhapuchare.
The base of the couloir is at 4,950m, where we
will most likely need to put on crampons. The
couloir is a very long snow climb, not steep,
but it is sustained and tiring, and it will take
about 4 hours to reach the col. On the col it
will probably be quite windy (unless we are very
lucky), but it is only an hour or so to the top,
up a pleasant snow ridge. Once on the summit,
we can rest and enjoy being on a Nepalese summit
in the midst of the Himalaya. After taking photos
and perhaps having a bite to eat, we descend to
the high camp and then continue to base camp for
a good meal. |
11 |
Trek to Korchon
(3,680m).
We take a different route back to Pokhara which
stays high up on ridges to allow us to enjoy the
views for longer. From base camp we traverse the
south ridge to reach a col at 4,280m. We then
stay up on the ridge, following it with wonderful
views, to Korchon where we camp. |
12 |
Trek to Riban
(1,780m).
The ridge line continues to Odane Hill. The descent
is steep and awkward, being on tussock grass with
hidden holes, so care is needed. However, the
trail is marked and eventually the grass gives
way to forest. Soon after we reach the col below
Odane Hill, which is a good view point. Following
the ridge line south, we emerge out of the forest
above Riban. This is our last evening on trek
so it is usual to sample the local brew and have
a sing-song with the Sherpas - they are always
happiest when the hard work is over! |
13/15 |
Trek to Hyenja,
drive to Pokhara.
The final part of the trek is a lovely walk through
Riban and on to Lachock. We cross the Mardi Khola
and Mardi Pul which is an excellent lunch spot.
Then it's a short walk to Hyenja where we are
met by our bus whisks us to the luxury of the
Fish Tail Lodge, on of Nepal's most celebrated
hotels. It's buildings sprawl across a small island
in Pewa Tal, the picturesque lake beside Pokhara.
From here we can look back towards Machhapuchare
and Mardi Himal, while sitting on the terrace
drinking beer! |
16 |
Fly back to Kathmandu |
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