Towering over the Indian hill
town of Darjeeling, Kanchenjunga is the third-tallest
mountain in the world after Mt. Everest and
Mt. K2 is situated in eastern part of Nepal.
It is 8586mt. high. From 1838 until 1849, it
was believed to be the highest. It is an enormous
mountain mass, and many satellite peaks rise
from its narrow icy ridges. It is located on
the border of Nepal and Sikkim, just 46 miles
northwest of Darjeeling. It is the most easterly
of the great 8,000-meter peaks of the Himalaya.
Though not successfully climbed
until 1955, it was first attempted in 1905,
but four members of that international party
were killed in an avalanche. The threat of avalanches
and mudslides is omnipresent in the area, which
receives very heavy precipitation throughout
much of the year.
As inspiring as beauty of Kanchenjunga
is that at least the first three parties to
ascend the mountain never attempted the final
few feet to the summit out of voluntary respect
for the Sikkim, who consider the summit sacred.
The successful British expedition of 1955 set
the standard by stopping a few feet short of
the actual summit, in honor of the local religion.
This peak lives up to its reputation. First
climbed in 1955 by a British team including
famed rock climber Joe Brown & George Band.
The mountain remained un-trodden for twenty-two
years. The next two ascents were teams led respectively
by India's Colonel N. Kumar in 1977, and by
British climber Doug Scott in 1979. These parties
also honored the tradition.
Various origins of the name Kanchenjunga
have been debated, but it is often translated
as Kanchenjunga means "Five Magnificent
Snow Treasures" a reference to the five
high peaks that rise from the surrounding glaciers.
The five mountains from the southeast are South
Peak (8491m), Central Peak (8478m), and Main
Peak; turning westward there are Yalung Kang
and Khambachen.
The route (North Face) is
definitely the safest, although not the easiest.
Climb of Kanchenjunga begin from a charming
base camp in the meadows of Pangpema at 5,180
M. First challenge is to fix lines up 900 M
of intricate mixed climbing to the North col.
This provides the most challenging climbing
of the expedition. Once creating a lifeline
to and from the North Col you can begin the
long process of establishing three camps up
the long and complicated North ridge. Using
Sherpa support and oxygen, you can move at a
methodically slow pace higher and higher up
the mountain. This is a highly rewarding climb
for the competent Alpinist
