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Chomo Lonzo 7,540 m. Expedition

Chomo Lonzo 7,540 m. Expedition
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Activity :
Expedition Tibet
Country :
Duration :
55 day(s)
Trip Grading :
Max-Elevation :
25,604 ft/ 7,804 meters
Climate :
Great climates

Located in the Kangshung valley of Tibet and separated from Makalu by Sakietang – La, Mt. Chomo Lonzo has three different summits namely the South Summit (7790m), Central Summit (7540m), and the North Summit (7199m). While from Nepal the mountain is overpowered by nearby Makalu, the fifth-highest peak in the world, the three peaks are a very impressive and dominating sight from the Kangshung valley in Tibet. The 3000 m high Northeast face is an obvious challenge that is as yet unsolved. Chomo-Lonzo translates to “bird goddess” and from the East the mountain indeed brings to mind a 3 km high eagle with spread wings. The mountain is also known by the names of Chomolonzo, Chomolönzo, Chomo Lönzo, Jomolönzo, or Lhamalangcho. The southern main peak is joined via a 7250m saddle to a 7540 – 7565 meter central peak, which is joined via a 7050 m saddle.

The Central and North peaks remained unclimbed until 2005. In 1999, an attempt to climb the central peak via its daunting NE pillar was thwarted. In April 2005, a French expedition first explored the NE face but, finding it too challenging, approached the mountain from the West and Northwest instead. One team (Yannick Graziani, Christian Trommsdorff and Patrick Wagnon) climbed the North summit over the NW ridge on May 7, while another (Stéphane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz) reached it over the West face on May 16. The first team reascended the North peak and continued to reach the central peak on May 21. The initial plan to traverse all three peaks and descend via the Sakietang La proved impossible.

The French climbers Jean Couzy and Lionel Terray reached the main summit via the gently sloping SW ridge from the 7200m Sakietang La that separates Chomo Lonzo from Makalu. They did this as an afterthought during a reconnaissance expedition to the Makalu, which they first-ascended the next year. The second ascent was only in 1993 by a Japanese expedition which found a route through the NW face that joined the SW ridge half-way. A third and currently last ascent of the main peak in 1994 followed the original SW ridge route.

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.       
Day 02: In Kathmandu official briefing and shopping.
Day 03: Free in Kathmandu.
Day 04: Fly to Lhasa at Gongar airport, meet our staff and transfer to Hotel.
Day 05: Sightseeing in Lhasa, Drepung, Sera and Norbu Lingka monasteries.
Day 06: Sightseeing in Lhasa, Potala Palace, Jokhang and Barkhor market.
Day 07: Drive to Yuopa and start the trek to Kharta valley.
Day 08: Trekking in Kharta Valley.
Day 09: Kharta Valley to Chomo Lonzo Base Camp.
Day 10/11: Stay at base camp for acclimatization and preparation.
Day 12/48: Climbing period for Chomo Lonzo.
Day 49: Clean up Base Camp and Preparation to back to Lhasa.
Day 50: Back to Kharta Valley.
Day 51: Drive to Yuopa then drive to Nyalam.
Day 52: Drive Nyalam – Zhangmu  – Kathmandu then transfer to Hotel.
Day 53: Kathmandu free.
Day 54: Kathmandu free or shopping.
Day 55: Last minute, transfer to airport for your onward journey.

• All land transportation by private vehicle, (Airport /Hotel/Airport & trekking pick up & drop).
• Welcome dinner with Nepali culture programs.
• 6 Nights Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast basis at (3 Star Hotel).
• Experience, professional Nepalese expedition crews; Advance Base Camp guide, Cook, Kitchen boys, and mountaineering gears till to the ABC.
• Crews equipment charge, daily wages, expedition insurance and other facility will provided by our agency itself.
• Tibet visa & Travel Permit for the expedition crews.
• 3 Major meals B/L/D (Full board basis) and Hotel accommodation while on the way to expedition as per programs Lhasa, Tingri, Nyalam and Zhangmu.
• 3 Major meals B/L/D during your stay in Chinese Base Camp and Advance Base Camp.
• Each person will get one North Face brand Tent and Mattress for Chinese Base Camp and Advance Base Camp.
• We provide Dining Tent, Tables, Chairs, Toilet Tent, Mess Tent, Shower Tent and Kitchen Tent at Chinese Base Camp and Advance Base Camp.
• Per Person 50 KG. Expedition equipments luggage or barrels allowed for expedition till to and from Base Camp and Advance Base Camp
• Per Person 40 KG. Expedition equipments luggage or barrels is allowed on the way back to Advance Base Camp to Chinese Base Camp. (Expedition equipments luggage or barrels carried by Yak).
• Kathmandu/ Lhasa/ Chinese Base Camp/ Zhangmu/ Kathmandu by tourist Mini Bus/Jeep/ Land Cruiser for members, Nepalese crews and Truck for the whole expedition gears.
• Mt. Chomo Lonzo Expedition permit, Tibet group Visa and Travel Permit.
• Liaison Officer and Interpreter for expedition till Chinese Base Camp.
• Emergency Oxygen, Mask & regulator for Advance Base Camp.
• Satellite Phone (Pay call service till ABC).
• Gammo Bag for the life saving device, incase of altitude sickness for Member during the expedition.
• Expedition T-shirts for each member with expedition label.
• Medical Kit Box for Nepalese crews and simple medical service for members till ABC.

• Airfare: To & from your country.
• International airport departure tax.
• Nepal entry visa and Re-entry visa fees.
• Personal expedition climbing gears.
• Major meals: Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
• Personal local transportation in Kathmandu and Tibet except above mentioned programs.
• Personal travel medical and rescue insurance.
• Emergency evacuation: Rescue Jeep US $ 500 to Zhangmu/Nepal border.
• Personal medicines and First-Aid expenses.
• Personal nature expenses.
• All Drinks except tea and coffee.
• Postage letter, Laundry service, Telephone calls and all other items of personal nature.
• Walkie-Talkie.
• Extra Yak: Per Yak's US $ 100 will be charged for 40 KG. load and US $ 25 for per Tibetan Yak man.
• Garbage Deposit US $ 500 (sharing with all total of the expedition climbers) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the climber don't take back their garbage to ABC.
• Tips for Nepalese crews, etc.

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