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Mt. Kangtega Expedition

Mt. Kangtega Expedition
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Activity :
Expedition in Nepal
Country :
Duration :
38 day(s)
Trip Grading :
Climate :
Great climates

Kangtega - The Snow Saddle - is another beautiful mountain, which rises majestically to a saddle shaped summit from the
Khumbu and Hinku Valley and sits next to another prominent mountain Thamserku to the north.

Our approach to this mountain is from the south side over the Tsetrawala pass and then through the Hinku glacier. We take
about a week to reach the Kangtega base camp situated at the bottom of the Kangtega Ice-Fall, which resembles with the
infamous Khumbu Ice Fall of Mt. Everest. Setting up our base camp at 5,182m/17,000ft. Though an obvious route up the
mountain would be to follow the Ice Fall, we have to go for the rock face leading to a ridge around 6,070m/19,909ft and
rappel down for about 70 meters to reach at the top of the icefall to avoid possible icefall hazards.

Camp I is placed here at an altitude of 6,000m/19,680ft. On ward we overcome some narrow crevasses and climb some
interesting snow slope to reach camp two at 6,400m/20,992ft. on the south ridge of the mountain. Before the sun totally
goes down, impressive mountain views can be viewed with a blue sky turning to golden and to crimson...

Next day, an early morning pushes through 45 ~ 50-degree snow slopes soon leads to knife edged short summit ridge. The
summit offers great mountain views and the valley surrounding.

Our Sherpa support will help carry food, fuel, equipment and fix the rope.


Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu, transfer to the hotel and welcome dinner in the evening
Day 02/04: Stay in Kathmandu for paper work and some other necessary preparation
Day 05: Fly to Lukla, trek to Phakding and stay overnight in lodge
Day 06: Phakding to Namche Bazaar and stay overnight
Day 07: Namche Bazaar – Khumjung and stay overnight
Day 08: Rest and acclimatization day in Khumjung
Day 09: Kangtega Base Camp
Day 10/30: Prparing fixed rope line and high camps and climbing over the Kangtega
Day 31: Cleaning up Base Camp
Day 32: Base camp to Khumjung
Day 33: Khumjung to Phakding
Day 34: Phakding to Lukla
Day 35: Fly to Kathmandu and transfer to the hotel
Day 36/37: Stay in Kathmandu and get back some refundable amount from government
Day 38: Departure

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