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Mt. Lhakpa Ri (7,045m.) Expedition

Mt. Lhakpa Ri (7,045m.) Expedition
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Activity :
Expedition Tibet
Country :
Tibet
Duration :
35 day(s)
Trip Grading :
Streneous
Max-Elevation :
23,114 ft/ 7,045 meters
Climate :
Great climates

Lhakpa Ri is a 7043 metre mountain located above the East Rongbuk Glacier in Tibet. It is an attractive peak, which divides the upper East Rongbuk glacier and upper Kharta glacier. The mountain is close enough to Everest to feel the enormous power and character of the world's highest mountain, but is set far enough back to appreciate the true geometric perspective of this great peak.

The name Lhakpa-Ri means "Stormy Mountain" and is situated in a stunning position directly opposite the North Ridge of Mount Everest, across upper East Rongbuk Glacier. From its summit the views of the surrounding mountains are truly amazing and there is unlikely to be any finer view point which can be reached by so straight forward an ascent route. Lhakpa Ri is probably the most climbable 7,000m peak in the world, but it is not a 'trek' as some trekking companies suggest! The ascent follows a shallow, snow-filled depression on the southwest flank of the mountain. After gaining the crest of the ridge close to the Lhakpa La, the route turns south and follows a spectacular snow ridge to the summit. The views from the summit, with the North Face of Everest behind, are incredible.

Lhakpa Ri offers a chance to conquer a 7000m peak, which although strenuous, requires little technical climbing and is the next step for anyone who has already tackled Mera Peak or Island Peak.  After a visit to Rongbuk and Everest Base Camp (Tibetan side) we begin our trek and slowly making our way along the Mallory Highway and prepare for the final push. The ascent follows a shallow, snow-filled depression on the southwest flank, ascending low-angled snow for 600m, which steeples at mid-height to around 30-35°. After gaining the crest of the ridge close to the Lhakpa La, we turn south and follow the snow ridge to the summit.

The summit view from Lhakpa Ri rivals that from many of the world's greatest mountains. It gives very unusual views of some of the world's best known mountains and excellent views of some very little known mountains. Amongst the highlights are the Nyonno Ri range in eastern Tibet, the north face of Chomolonzo and the north faces of Makalu and Pethangtse. The summit is a prominent three-sided pyramid which drops to the East Rongbuk Glacier to the west, the Kharta Glacier to the east and falls steeply to a tributary glacier of the Kangshung to the south. The slopes from the Rongbuk an Kharta Glaciers are relatively low angled and are linked by the Lhakpa La pass (6,849m), which is just to the north of Lhakpa Ri. It was from this pass, in 1922, that Mallory and his team mates first saw the East Rongbuk Glacier, an event well documented in mountaineering annals.

Mt. Lhakpa Ri (7,045m.) Expedition



The mountain is one of several peaks that line the east flank of the East Rongbuk Glacier. The summit is a prominent three-sided pyramid which drops to the East Rongbuk Glacier to the west, the Kharta Glacier to the east and falls steeply to a tributary glacier of the Kangshung to the south. The slopes from the Rongbuk an Kharta Glaciers are relatively low angled and are linked by the Lhakpa La pass (6,849m), which is just to the north of Lhakpa Ri. It was from this pass, in 1922, that Mallory and his team mates first saw the East Rongbuk Glacier, an event well documented in mountaineering annals. The most climbable 7,000m peak in the world ! Lhakpa Ri is an ideal objective, remarkably positioned just across the glacier from Everest. It shares the historic route up the East Rongbuk Glacier and is climbable by a relatively safe and straightforward route. It is just over the milestone altitude of 7,000m, making it higher than anything outside Asia and is probably the most climbable 7,000m peak in the world.


If you want to reach 7000 m and climb in the shadow of Everest, than Lhakpa Ri might be a peak to consider. Lhakpa Ri has been dubbed the world’s easiest 7000 m peak. That may very well be a true assessment given that it is only trekking to about 6300 m and the climb to the summit is not a big technical challenge.

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Free day in Kathmandu for expedition preparation
Day 03: Preparation and official briefing.
Day 04: Drive to Kodari – Cross border and overnight at Zhangmu. Hotel.
Day 05: Drive Zhangmu – Nyalam. Hotel
Day 06: Nyalam – Tingri. Hotel.
Day 07: Tingri rest for Acclimatization. Hotel.
Day 08: Drive Tingri – Lhakpa Ri Base Camp. Tented Camp.
Day 09: Lhakpa Ri Base Camp. Tented Camp.
Day 10: Lhakpa Ri Base Camp – Middle Camp. Tented Camp.
Day 11: Middle Camp – ABC Camp. Tented Camp.
Day 12-23: Climbing period of Lakpa Ri 7,043m. Tented Camp.
Day 24: Base Camp rest and preparation. Tented Camp.
Day 25: Base Camp to Tingri. Hotel.
Day 26: Drive Tingri – Shegar. Hotel.
Day 27: Drive Shegar – Shigatse. Hotel
Day 28: Drive Shigatse – Gyantse. Hotel
Day 29: Drive Gyantse – Lhasa. Hotel
Day 30: Lhasa sightseeing. Hotel.
Day 31: Lhasa sightseeing. Hotel.
Day 32: Drive to Gongar airport then by flight to Kathmandu then transfer to Hotel.
Day 33: Free day in Kathmandu.
Day 34: Free day in Kathmandu.
Day 35: Last minute, transfer to airport for onward journey.

• All land transportation by private vehicle, (Airport /Hotel/Airport & trekking pick up & drop).
• Welcome dinner with Nepali culture programs.
• 6 Nights Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast basis at (3 Star Hotel) Hotel Manang.
• Experience, professional Nepalese expedition crews; Advance Base Camp guide, Cook, Kitchen boys, and mountaineering gears till to the ABC.
• Crews equipment charge, daily wages, expedition insurance and other facility will provided by our agency itself.
• Tibet visa & Travel Permit for the expedition crews.
• 3 Major meals B/L/D (Full board basis) and Hotel accommodation while on the way to expedition as per programs Zhangmu, Nyalam & Tingri Base Camp and continue till Lhasa.
• 3 Major meals B/L/D during your stay in Chinese Base Camp and Advance Base Camp.
• Each person will get one North Face brand Tent and Mattress for Chinese Base Camp and Advance Base Camp.
• We provide Dining Tent, Tables, Chairs, Toilet Tent, Mess Tent, Shower Tent and Kitchen Tent at Chinese Base Camp and Advance Base Camp.
• Per Person 50 KG. Expedition equipments luggage or barrels allowed for expedition till to and from Base Camp and Advance Base Camp
• Per Person 40 KG. Expedition equipments luggage or barrels is allowed on the way back to Advance Base Camp to Chinese Base Camp. (Expedition equipments luggage or barrels carried by Yak).
• Kathmandu/ Zhangmu/ Chinese Base Camp/ Zhangmu/ Kathmandu by tourist Mini Bus/Jeep/ Land Cruiser for members, Nepalese crews and Truck for the whole expedition gears.
• Lakpa Ri Expedition permit, Tibet group Visa and Travel Permit.
• Liaison Officer and Interpreter for expedition till Chinese Base Camp.
• Emergency Oxygen, Mask & regulator for Advance Base Camp.
• Satellite Phone (Pay call service till ABC).
• Gammo Bag for the life saving device, incase of altitude sickness for Member during the expedition.
• Expedition T-shirts for each member with expedition label.
• Medical Kit Box for Nepalese crews and simple medical service for members till ABC.

• Airfare: To & from your country.
• International airport departure tax.
• Nepal entry visa and Re-entry visa fees.
• Personal expedition climbing gears.
• Major meals: Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
• Personal local transportation in Kathmandu and Tibet except above mentioned programs.
• Personal travel medical and rescue insurance.
• Emergency evacuation: Rescue Jeep US $ 700 to Zhangmu/Nepal border.
• Personal medicines and First-Aid expenses.
• Personal nature expenses.
• All Drinks except tea and coffee.
• Postage letter, Laundry service, Telephone calls and all other items of personal nature.
• Walkie-Talkie.
• Extra Yak: Per Yak's US $ 100 will be charged for 40 KG. load and US $ 25 for per Tibetan Yak man.
• Garbage Deposit: US $ 300 (sharing with all total of the expedition climbers) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the climbers dont take back their garbage to ABC.
• Tips for Nepalese crews, etc.

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