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Paldor Peak (5,896m) is located in
the Ganesh Himal, northwest of Kathmandu. Besides
Paldor, there are several Peaks in this area, which
are worth climbing. As the area is relatively near
to Kathmandu, it is possible to organize an entire
climbing expedition within 17 days.
High camp is relatively far from the summit. It is
still quite a distance to climb from this camp. A
summit camp needs to be placed another four hours
climb from the high camp. From the summit camp, it
is a very long day to climb Paldor.
Paldor being in one of the mass of the Ganesh Himal,
but still its position somewhat removed from the main
range of the Ganesh. So as you reach the summit, a
grandeur view awaits you, stretching from Mt. Machhapuchhre
(Fish Tail) in the Annapurna range, all the way to
the peaks of the Khumbu region along with the Mt.
Shisapangma and the brown hills of Tibet. After the
strenuous enjoyable climb a pleasant walk back to
the busy bazaar of Trisuli via scenic route of Tiru
Danda and Pansing Bhanjyang. A three hours drive on
the winding road will brings you back to the civilization
in Kathmandu.
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North
– East ridge (Tilman's Ride)
From base camp, follow a path below the conspicious moraine
on its east side as far as Paldor Tarn. Here there is
a small and inconspicuous lake to the south of the peak
called Fang. Cross the stream issuing from the lake and
aim for the east ridge of Fang. This boulders slope is
the Paldor Glacier east at an altitude of 5,200 meters
(17,060ft), in a magnificent amphitheatre of alpine –
scale peaks. The glacier at this point is flat and uncomplicated
by crevasses.
From high camp follow the Paldor Glacier, East, without
difficulty, north towards a col on the North – East
Ridge. Cross the bergscrund and climb a steep snow slope
to gain the col. This may be very difficulty, in which
case ascend the slope to the left, climbing diagonally
towards a rocky pinnacle. Once on the ridge, climb over
several pinnacles of loose rock leading to a horizontal
snow arête that narrows dramatically. Follow this
foot of the final 150 meters (492 feet) headwall. Ascend
this on steep snow to the junction of the South- East
Ridge, which may be corniced. Continue easily to the summit.
This is Alpine AD climbing and takes five to seven hours
from high camp. |
South
– East Ridge
John
Cleare and Ian Howell first climbed this in 1974. Between
Tilman’s ascent in 1949 and Cleare’s expedition
of 1974 it is possible that Paldor had no other ascents.
Since then the mountain has received more attention and
many new routes added.
This route climbs the long snow and ice arête that
descends to the fine rock peak of Fang. The lowest point
of this ridge is best reached, from a high camp on the
Paldor Glacier East, by a steep snow and ice slope (55
degrees). The ridge has also been reached via a potential
avalanche couloir from the Paldor Glacier West. The ridge
is above is followed, in places quite steeply, but without
major difficulty to the summit.
A combination of both these routes has been made as a
traverse and is highly recommended. |
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| Fact
Box about Paldor peak 19,341feet / 5,896meters |
| Total days |
13 + 4 =
17 days |
| Maximum elevation |
19341feet / 5,896meters |
| Location |
Langtang region of Nepal |
| Best for the climbing |
March, April, May, October,
November |
| Year First Climbed |
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| First Climber (s) |
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| Convenient Center (s) |
Dhunche |
| Nearest Major Airport
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Kathmandu |
| Itinerary type |
Camping |
| Accommodations |
Fixed / Customized |
| Longitude |
85° 11' 02" |
| Trek grade |
Moderate & Strenuous |
| Latitude |
28° 16' 43"
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| Itenerary
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| Days |
Route |
01 |
Kathmandu
by bus to Dhumche |
02 |
Dhumche trek to Syabrubese |
03 |
Syambru Besi
to Thangjet
From Syabru a trail descends north west
above the Langtang Khola to the bridge at Syabrubensi.
Follow the path through Syabrubensi (1,462m/4,800ft)
toward the Bhote Kosi. Across the river, on the
hillside opposite, the desolation left by the
building of the new road is well in evidence.
Cross the Bhote Kosi by the suspension bridge
just beyond the village – this might still
be in need of some new planking. However, the
largest holes are capped by larger stones and
where these are missing the views of the river,
a long way below, is quite moving!
Follow the route traversing around the foot of
the spur into the valley of the chilime Khola.
Cross the river by a suspension bridge to the
north bank and follow a path upstream to another
large suspension bridge by which you re-cross
to the south bank, passing through Gholjong Sango,
where the valley now widens. The trail follows
a well- engineered water channel and leads eventually
to Thangjet (1,676m/5,500ft), near the confluence
of the Chilime and Brindong Kholas. Surprisingly,
this fairly large village is not marked on the
recent Schneider map.
A trail is said to exist that crosses the Jarsa
Danda to Thangjet, but I couldn’t find it
and in any case the new road may have spoilt that
particularly way. Local help should be sought
with regard to the road. |
04 |
Thangjet to
Yuri Kharka Camp
The people of the Brindong Khola’s main
village of Gatlang (2,438m/8000 ft), are a colourful
and interesting community. They appears to be
a mixture of Tamangs and a more recent Tibetan
influence.
The trail climbs steeply through terraced hillsides
to Gatlang, passing mani-walls piled with carved
stones and lotus flower mandalas. Gatlang is the
crowded village with stone built houses huddled
together. Beyond the Gatlang the trail enters
into forest; permits may be checked at an army
post below Yuri Kharka, a small clearing with
running water. |
05 |
Yari Kharka
to Below Lari Mine
Beyond the kharka the trail continues through
the forest climbing steeply to a notch, the Khurpadanda
Banjyang (3,739m/12,267ft), shown as Paldol Bhanjyang
on some maps. From the ridge there are fine views
from the Annapurnas in the west to the Langtang
and beyond in the east. On the far side of the
Mailung Khola is the ridge of the Tiru Danda and
the pass of Pansing Bhanjyang. These provide the
best walk- out from Paldor.
From the Kurpa Danda Bhanjyang follow a path north
along the crest at first and then traverse the
steep hillside on the west flank. The path is
quite spectacular in places but soon descends
into the pine forest to meet the new road. Follow
the road for a while, which is extended to the
army post at Samathang where there is a radio;
we found the soldiers to be a friendly and chatty
bunch. There are several campsite possibilities
close to the trail at this point. |
06 |
Lari Mine Camp
to Base Camp
Climb steeply to the mine at Lari which has a
variety of buildings and tramways. Beyond the
mine, climb steeply above the gorge of the river.
The path, quite rocky in places, climbs between
outcrops and traverses north-eastwards to a small
valley bounded by moraines below the glacier of
Paldor. Base camp can be sited here, below the
confluence of the Paldor West and Paldor East
glacier just north of a fine rock pinnacle that
Cleare called ‘Neddy’s thumb’,
at an altitude of 4,500 meters (14,900 feet).
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07 |
BC Rest Day for Acclimatize |
08 |
Base Camp to High Camp |
09 |
Climbing Palder Back
to BC |
10 |
Base Camp to Lari Mine |
11 |
Lari Mine to Yari Kharka |
12 |
Yari Kharla to Thangjet |
13 |
Thangjet to Syabrubesi |
14 |
Syabrubese back to Kathmandu |
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